On Being a Wineo

Kara, Orla and Bobbie with wine.

For a while now, my friends and I have been on and off regulars at a Saturday evening wine buffet in Gangnam. For 23,000 won, you can drink unlimited glasses of wine or champagne from 6 P.M. to 9 P.M. There's also an offering of tasty hors d'oeuvres (including real cheese, which I'm told is a big draw, if you like that sort of thing).

The key to a successful experience at wine buffet is to create a 'wine bank' before 8:45 when the wine starts going away. If you are unsure what the word 'success' means as applied to a wine buffet, here is a visual example:

Exhibit A: Wine Bank

Afterward, we tottered over to Hongdae to go clubbing. There are many wonderful and horrible things in Hongdae. Like dance clubs! And also, dance clubs. Remember to fortify yourself properly. Although very few of the clubs and bars sell soju (the cost to alcohol content ratio makes it unprofitable to serve), the local Buy the Way is well-stocked.

Exhibit B: Soju Warriors (Sorry Deryk and Michael)

I warn you, things degenerate rapidly where soju is involved.

Weekend in Samcheok

I went to Samcheok on the eastern coast of Korea over the weekend with some friends. It was very green and beautiful with all the spring rain.

Mark never smiles.

Samcheok (read about it here) is known for two things - beautiful caves and penis park. For some reason, I find this very appropriate. Titter titter.

Deryk, Graham and I (right to left) hiking!

The caves were very big. And very dark. So much so that I didn't really get many decent photos. Though, I did snap this one:

The Bridge of Confessions

We walked over the Bridge of Confessions after first crossing the Bridge of Love and trekking past a heart-shaped rock formation in the Valley of Hell. Will I sound jaded if I say it seems like the people who named these things were trying to offer some sort of commentary on relationships?

After a day of hiking and caving, we went out for dinner and drinks. There was much drinking of soju. I also learned that the novel I'm currently reading, about the Spanish Revolution, is not going to end well. I probably should have been tipped off by the inscription in the beginning - Do not ask for whom the bell tolls, it tolls for thee (500 won to you if you can guess the book title).

We found an "American Bar" which means it has a kitsch jumble of Americana and still serves soju. All riiight. Just don't talk to any drunk Irishmen. They may seem amicable, but they will insult you, lecture you about the newfound necessity of the appendix and then take your shot without even asking. You've been fairly warned.

Why Living in Seoul is Great; Why Living in Seoul is Awful

In an effort to save more money,  I've been tracking my expenses lately.


Typical Expenses (Weekday):

Lunch - Bibimbap + juice (GS25)            2,500 won
             Sweet Chocolate bar                     200 won

Subway Fare (both ways)                        1,800 won

Dinner - Odeng                                       1,200 won
              apple                                         1,000 won

                                                 TOTAL: 6,700 won = $5.90 US

---------------------------------------------------------------

Typical Expenses (Saturday):

Snack - chocolate waffle (subway)           2,000 won

Subway Fare (both ways)                        1,800 won

Lunch - Salad (Kraze Burger)                  5,500 won

Pre-dinner Drink - whiskey (Sam Ryans)  5,000 won
Dinner - Pollack Soup (Itaewon)              6,000 won

Drinks (Queen, Stompers, etc.)               38,000 won
Drinks (GS25)                                          3,000 won

Taxi (from Itaewon)                                15,000 won

Drunken snacks (GS25)                           6,500 won

                                                TOTAL: 80,500 won = $70.84 US

;_;

Thanksgiving Weekend

 I took my co-teachers out to lunch last Saturday as a thank you for all the help they've given me. So, I guess it was a very appropriate Thanksgiving weekend.

And here's a picture of me balancing a menu on my head. Talent.

While we were having coffee with my co-teachers, Eric and I demonstrated the thanksgiving tradition of tracing your hand and making it look like a turkey. We used a napkin and the waterproof marker I've had in my purse since we went to Namsan Tower. Unfortunately, we didn't realize that the ink would bleed through and leave a very festive drawing on the table. We are really leaving our mark on Korea (har).

Later, Eric and I went to Hongdae to meet some friends.

Friends (Anji probably looks annoyed because she is a Native American. Or, because we were stupidly drunk.)

This is how I look when I'm going to spend the next morning wishing I were dead.

Seoul Folk Flea Market

Last Saturday, we went to an all-you-can-drink  wine buffet in Gangnam. It was a good deal but between the $25 price tag and the availability of otherwise scarce good wine, it was a little too easy to drink a little too much.

Recently, this keeps happening to me. I wake up the next morning feeling like where's Waldo, wondering where my ear muffs, hat, wig, 'insert item here' went. So, unless I start duct-tapping the important stuff to my body, I've got to start being more responsible.

This past weekend, Eric and I went to the Seoul folk Flea Market. I feel strongly that everything I lose in Seoul will eventually end up here (for the low, low price of 2,000 won). I'm not sure what makes it 'folk.' From what I saw, the only major difference between this and other flea markets I've been to was its scale. This was a massive warehouse of people selling random junk, and any kind of random junk you could possibly want. Earmuffs, golf clubs, authentic U.S. military meal rations, Japanese swords, old trombones, and butterfly knifes (illegal in the U.S., if you feel the urge to smuggle home a neat souvenir for baby brother).

Random Korean Figurines. I want the Tae Kwon Do fighters!

Or how about some business card holders with Korean pop stars on them? Rain B is pretty dreamy.

Inappropriate pigs. We found these at a stall that sold smutty videos.

It was refreshing in it's lack of touristy build-up, actually. I bought some earmuffs for Eric (since I lost his the night before) and a cinnamon-sugar filled pancake at the food court.

God is Having a Good Time

After our school hike, we came back down and went to dinner at a grill restaurant. At grill restaurants they give you a big platter of meat and you get to cook it yourself at your table. There are lots of different types in Korea - this one specialized in pork so we had ham and samgyeopsal.
This is samgyeopsal - thick-slab bacon. It's not my favorite.

There were about 20 toasts during dinner. I'm not sure if we were actually celebrating anything in particular. Yeong Deuk was explaining that in Korea, people don't drink alone. So, there are lots of toasts so everyone drinks together, which fosters group belonging and harmony. That said, we drank a lot of mokolri and soju.

There are many Korean drinking customs. You leave your cup half full when you don't want more to drink because when your cup is empty, another person must refill it. It is considered rude to refill your own cup or to pour or accept alcohol with only one hand. And once two people have poured for each other, they have a toast and drink together. However, these rules are flexible. Especially as people drink more, it seems. After I was about four drinks in, Mr. Shin refilled my quarter-full cup and said "welcome to Korea."

It was funny to see about three quarters of the teaching staff stumbling out of the restaurant.

There was an after-party at a pub in Yeongdeungpo. Everyone was invited but I think there is a tacit understanding that only men go. And me, because I am a novelty. I'm told there is always an afterparty in Korea. You must accept the invitation, then quiety slip away during the trip to the second party if you don't want to go. But since I am tall, blonde and foreign, it is hard to quietly slip away. I dragged Kyeong along with me, though, to avoid complete awkwardness.

So, me, Kyeong and at least half the of the male teaching staff had some beers. They told me they actually have a name for their little club. They call it the Silver Bells. They told me this is an underwear brand in Korea (then, of course, asked what brand of underwear I was wearing).

After about an hour, my principal decided I must see Seonyu Island, and I must see it tonight. There is also a tacit understanding that you cannot refuse the principal. So, me, Kyeong, the principal, and two other teachers went to Seonyoo Island.
Here is us on the island. Awkward.

We went to a cafe on the island and ate Patbingsu.
Patbingsu is shaved ice topped with sweetened red bean paste, candied rice cakes and fruit. It might sound a little strange but I really enjoy it.

While we were eating, my principal told me how the first part of our school's name means 'God,' and the second part means 'to have a good time.' So, I teach at God is Having a Good Time Middle School.


This morning, Mr. Shin brought me saltines, rice cakes and a cup of coffee. I couldn't tell if this was for Chuseok or because he thought I might have a hangover.

College Land

Thanks to rowing, I was on a different time schedule in college. Even after I stopped, I still woke up early every morning. Since everyone else in college stayed up until 3 a.m. and woke up at 11, I often left out of synch.

But, I thought, once we're out in the real world, I won't have to adjust.

Ironically, the entire country of Korea is on college time. The drinking culture here (which is 7 days a week until at least 1 a.m., if the bar downstairs from me is anything to go off of) fosters going to sleep late and waking up late. I understand now why Korea is know as the 'land of the morning calm.'

I tried to buy some milk before work a few days ago but the only things open before 9 a.m. are tiny mini-marts full of Pocky and instant meals. Bakery employees give me odd looks when I come to peruse their empty shelves at 7. Dunkin' Donuts doesn't even open until 8.

I can see why so many new college graduates enjoy Korea - it's a very gentle transition into the real world. The post-baccalaureate program of Korea. I could have the college experience I missed out on during college. Should I be getting on board with late nights and alcoholism?

Shit man, I'm 23

It was my birthday yesterday so we went out for drinks at an 'ice house.' These bars have cupholders in their tables that keep your beer cool. It was very exciting! I was so excited I kept refilling my glass so I could see it get cool again.

Afterward, we decided to go to a norebang - a bunch of private karaoke rooms people can rent out. I don't really remember it but I have a lot of pictures (like the one above), so it was probably really fun.

On the way home, we found out that Eric really likes Lord of the Rings.

Around My Neighborhood

Eric and I went wandering yesterday around our neighborhood.



Here is a nearby street at night.



It is legal to drink alcohol on the street in Korea.



So, we bought some cocktails in plastic baggies.



Korea is a great country. Besides the street bars, they've created the chocolate Cheeto.


Mmm, familian snacks.